Naples for first-timers: intense city, simple plan

A Greek city that never stopped being a port

Naples began as a Greek colony, first Parthenope and then Neapolis, the new city, which grew into one of the great centres of Magna Graecia. It was the capital of the Kingdom of Naples and later of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies until Italian unification, and its historic centre has been a World Heritage Site since 1995. That long story shows in the streets, where baroque churches, palaces and ancient remains sit side by side.

It is also the home of Neapolitan pizza, whose craft UNESCO has recognised, and of Caravaggio's baroque. It all makes more sense once you stop looking for an orderly city: Naples is visited in layers, on foot, and with a willingness to walk into a courtyard that looks abandoned and find a chapel.

What to see: old town, hills and bay

The historic centre, laid out on a Greek-Roman grid, is the densest area: narrow streets, churches and shops at every turn, with districts like Spaccanapoli best walked slowly. Close by, the National Archaeological Museum holds much of what was found at Pompeii and Herculaneum, so it makes sense to see it before or after the ruins to understand them.

Higher up, the Capodimonte Museum, a former Bourbon palace, concentrates painting and a porcelain collection, and the Certosa di San Martino offers, besides its rooms, one of the best views of the bay. Beyond the city, Pompeii and the Royal Palace of Caserta each need a full day.

What needs no ticket fills the gaps between visits: Via San Gregorio Armeno, with its nativity-scene workshops; the Galleria Umberto I; Piazza del Plebiscito and the waterfront walk to Castel dell'Ovo. They are stretches to walk slowly and snack on the go, and they keep the day from becoming a chain of museums.

How long to stay, and what to do about Pompeii

With two days you can cover the old town, the Archaeological Museum and one of the hills, Capodimonte or San Martino. With three days you add the second one and have room for a relaxed lunch and a walk along the waterfront. Pompeii is a separate excursion: a full day is the norm, which is why there is a plan combining it with the city in Naples and Pompeii in two days.

If time is short, split it like this: a morning for the Archaeological Museum, the afternoon for the old town, and the whole next day for Pompeii. If you arrive from Rome, the high-speed train makes a same-day round trip possible, though staying at least one night is more comfortable. It is a city that is better lived at night than passed through.

Tickets: what is worth booking ahead

Pompeii and the Royal Palace of Caserta are the two places where booking makes most sense, because in high season entrance queues can eat a good part of the morning. In the city, the Archaeological Museum and Capodimonte work well with a ticket in advance, especially on weekends or peak dates. The Certosa di San Martino usually leaves more room.

For smaller sites or those with very limited capacity, such as some chapels and underground visits, check in good time whether a reservation is needed. Tickets are booked on an external site, Weekend in Italy, where you see prices, languages and availability by date. A good rule is to reserve the out-of-town excursions first and fit the other visits around them.

Eating, getting around and staying calm

Pizza is part of the trip, not a chore: well-known neighbourhood pizzerias queue at standard meal times, so go early or mid-afternoon. For getting around, the centre is walkable; funiculars climb to the Vomero and the metro reaches several areas. Pompeii and Herculaneum are reached by regional train.

One honest warning: Naples is intense, and that includes the traffic. Cross decisively, do not hesitate mid-street and watch for scooters. In crowded places, carry your bag in front and avoid pulling out your phone in packed areas. With that basic care, the city is far less complicated than its reputation.